‘Every Culinary Artist Should Train At This Spot’: Modest Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.
A Surprise Accolade
The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.
“I’m utterly surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.
The Charm of Modesty
The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.
The Signature Dish: Tantuni
However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.
It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.
It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.
Beyond the Classic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.
Surpassing the Stars
Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.
A Creed of Hospitality
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.
The Journey of Hard Work
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the Community
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.